You should be able to feel air exiting out of the wastegate port. Then take your spare N75 and blow into the high pressure port. Unplug the N75 and see if you get a DTC for open or short to ground. Although in this case I would expect a DTC for an open or short to ground. So another possibility is that the wiring to the N75 is defective and isn't getting the required signal. But you did mention that you tried two different N75's with the same result. One possible explanation would be that the N75 is stuck in the closed position and consequently not dumping the pressure signal into the TIP as requested by the ECM. So the problem seems to be that even though the ECM is doing everything properly to build boost the pressure signal is still getting through the N75 and on to the wastegate. You are also seeing a 95% duty cycle on the N75. You checked the resistance of the N75 and confirmed that the coils are intact and working properly. You know that your ECM is calling for boost as evidenced by the requested boost of 2100 mbar but all you are getting is 1500 mbar. If you clamp off the pressure signal to the wastegate you can easily build boost so you know your turbo is mechanically capable of operating properly. Pulled the diverter valve and did a vacuum check on that. Heck I tried running it wide open from the MAF sensor housing. any ideas guys? im going crazy trying to narrow this down.Īlso things I forgot to add. the duty cycle on the N75 is 95% while wide open. I used soapy water on every connection I could get to with no leaks. did another boost leak check this morning with no leaks found. I also bypassed the n249 valve just to make sure that wasnt an issue and it didnt help. I had the car remote tuned and that did help raising the boost to 7-8 up from the 6. did an ohm check on the n75 and its 29-30 which is within spec. its commanding in the 2100ish mbar range but actual is only in the 1300-1500 range wide open. It runs ok, but I Feel it is definitely under powered compared to my all stock 2002 passat I had that ran right at 11 PSI stock. I figured i was possibly in a soft limp mode, so I would clear the codes and no change. I should note I had an underboost code once, but I cleared it and i have not seen it in awhile. I only have 2 codes tripped, and they are both in relation to the test pipe and rear 02 sensor I removed. Tried swapping the N75 valve from my parts car with no change. I found a few faulty check valves, and I also found my diverter valve had failed. I have checked all of the boost lines and vac lines. It might spike to 7, but always ends up at 6 psi. I found a tear in the line going to the waste gate. after awhile, It started spiking 15-16 psi and than instantly fading to 5. So, When i first got it running after an engine swap(before the tune), it ran great at around 10-11 psi. I feel like im always working on this dang thing. It would go into half power mode and put up CEL right quick.2003 1.8T stage 1 tune. Your car would freak out if you had a legit boost leak. Put a JB4 in there you will def hit some higher boost. Would that be the correct way to reason it, or should I be checking for a boost leak somewhere I am wondering with the electronic wastegate and with BMW stock tune that they tuned it for consistent output of power so in winter to hit "300lbs of torque" it only takes 7psi, and in the summer with less dense air and higher IATs that it will take 10psi to reach that output. Just wondering how are people getting 10psi? I logged my 435ix via OBD today and did I bunch of WOT runs. Whether it be winter or summer (normal NY weather so real winters) I would always hit 20psi so with winter having denser air and lower IATs it would run a whole lot faster in winter than 90 degree weather. On my previous car I was running a td05-16g turbo at 20psi. I read that stock boost pressure for the n55 is anywhere from 7-10psi
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